World Food Books' programme is largely produced on Kulin Nation land. We acknowledge the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin Nation as the first and continuing custodians of this land, and pay respect to their Elders past, present, and emerging.
World Food Books is an arts and special interests bookshop in Naarm / Melbourne. Founded in 2010, World Food Books is devoted to the presentation of a rotating, hand-selection of international art, design, literary and counterculture publications with an emphasis on the anti-traditional, the experimental, the avant-garde, the heretic, the marginal.
Presenting new titles alongside rare and out-of-print books, catalogues and journals spanning the fields of modern and contemporary art, design, photography, illustration, film, literature, poetry, cultural theory, philosophy, sexuality, popular and underground culture in its many radical forms, World Food Books wishes to encourage adventurous, thoughtful and open-minded reading, looking, writing, and exchange of publishing and ideas, both current and historical.
As well as our bookshop, located in Melbourne's historical Nicholas Building, all of our inventory is available internationally via our online mail-order service.
World Food Books semi-regularly co-ordinates "Occasions", a programme of exhibits and events at the bookshop and in partnership with other hosts (such as museums and art galleries) that develop out of the activities, relationships and content of the bookshop itself.
World Food Books
The Nicholas Building
37 Swanston Street
Room 5, Level 6
Melbourne 3000
Australia
SHOP HOURS:
THU—SAT 12—6 PM
WEB-SHOP OPEN 24/7
World Food Books
Postal Address:
PO Box 435
Flinders Lane
Victoria 8009
Australia
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World Food Books Gift Voucher
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All prices in AUD (Australian dollars)
Pick-Ups
Pick-up orders can be collected in our bookshop during opening hours after order date. Please collect any Pick-up orders within 2 weeks of ordering as we have limited storage space. Orders will be released back into stock if not collected within this time. No refunds can be made for pick-ups left un-collected. If you cannot make it in to the bookshop in this time-frame, please choose postage option.
Return Policy
All sales are final. We do accept returns (for refund or exchange) for items received in error. All our orders are packed with special care using heavy-duty padding and cardboard book-mailers or bubble mailers (for smaller books), using reinforcement where required. We cannot take responsibility for any lost, stolen or damaged parcels.
Insurance
Should you wish to insure your package, please email us directly after placing your order and we can organise this at a small extra expense. Although all standard/express tracked packages are very safe and dependable, we cannot take responsibility for any lost, stolen or damaged parcels. We recommend insurance on valuable orders.
Interested in selling your old books, catalogues, journals, magazines, comics, fanzines, ephemera? We are always looking for interesting, unusual and out-of-print books to buy. We only buy books in our fields of interest and specialty, and that we feel we can resell.
We base these prices on desirability, market value, in-print prices, condition and our current stock levels. We offer cash, store credit, and can take stock on consignment. All
about 25% of the price we expect to get when we sell them, or 30% in store credit. We base these prices on desirability, market value, in-print prices, condition and our current stock levels.
Sell your books any day of the week. You can drop them off and return later. If you have a lot of books, we can visit your Sydney home.
We buy books that we feel we can resell. We offer about 25 % of the price we expect to get when we sell them, or 30% in store credit. We base these prices on desirability, market value, in-print prices, condition and our current stock levels.
Philadelphia Wireman
03 August - 01 September, 2018
World Food Books is proud to announce our next Occasion, the first presentation of sculptures by Philadelphia Wireman in Australia.
The Philadelphia Wireman sculptures were found abandoned in an alley off Philadelphia’s South Street on trash night in 1982. Their discovery in a rapidly-changing neighbourhood undergoing extensive renovation, compounded with the failure of all attempts to locate the artist, suggests that the works may have been discarded after the maker’s death. Dubbed the "Philadelphia Wireman" during the first exhibition of this work, in 1985, the maker’s name, age, ethnicity, and even gender remain uncertain. The entire collection totals approximately 1200 pieces, all intricately bound together with tightly-wound heavy-gauge wire (along with a few small, abstract marker drawings, reminiscent both of Mark Tobey and J.B. Murry). The dense construction of the work, despite a modest range of scale and materials, is singularly obsessive and disciplined in design: a wire armature or exoskeleton firmly binds a bricolage of found objects including plastic, glass, food packaging, umbrella parts, tape, rubber, batteries, pens, leather, reflectors, nuts and bolts, nails, foil, coins, toys, watches, eyeglasses, tools, and jewellery.
Heavy with associations—anthropomorphic, zoomorphic, and socio-cultural responses to wrapped detritus—the totemic sculptures by Philadelphia Wireman have been discussed in the context of work created to fulfil the shamanistic needs of alternative religions in American culture. Curators, collectors, and critics have variously compared certain pieces to sculpture from Classical antiquity, Native American medicine bundles, African-American memory jugs, and African fetish objects. Reflecting the artist’s prolific and incredibly focused scavenging impulse, and despite—or perhaps enhanced by—their anonymity, these enigmatic objects function as urban artefacts and arbiters of power, though their origin and purpose is unknown. Philadelphia Wireman, whatever their identity, possessed an astonishing ability to isolate and communicate the concepts of power and energy through the selection and transformation of ordinary materials. Over the course of the past two decades, this collection has come to be regarded as an important discovery in the field of self-taught art and vernacular art.
Presented in collaboration with Fleisher-Ollman Gallery, Philadelphia, and Robert Heald, Wellington.
Susan Te Kahurangi King
02 February - 10 March, 2018
Susan Te Kahurangi King (24 February 1951 - ) has been a confident and prolific artist since she was a young child, drawing with readily available materials - pencils, ballpoint pens and felt-tip markers, on whatever paper is at hand. Between the ages of four and six Susan slowly ceased verbal communication. Her grandparents William and Myrtle Murphy had developed a special bond with Susan so they took on caring responsibilities for extended periods. Myrtle began informally archiving her work, carefully collecting and storing the drawings and compiling scrapbooks. No drawing was insignificant; every scrap of paper was kept. The King family are now the custodians of a vast collection containing over 7000 individual works, from tiny scraps of paper through to 5 meter long rolls.
The scrapbooks and diaries reveal Myrtle to be a woman of great patience and compassion, seeking to understand a child who was not always behaving as expected. She encouraged Susan to be observant, to explore her environment and absorb all the sights and sounds. Myrtle would show Susan’s drawings to friends and people in her community that she had dealings with, such as shopkeepers and postal workers, but this was not simply a case of a grandmother’s bias. She recognised that Susan had developed a sophisticated and unique visual language and sincerely believed that her art deserved serious attention.
This was an unorthodox attitude for the time. To provide some context, Jean Dubuffet coined the term Art Brut in 1945 to describe work created by self-taught artists – specifically residents of psychiatric institutions and those he considered to be visionaries or eccentrics. In 1972 Roger Cardinal extended this concept by adopting the term Outsider Art to describe work made by non-academically trained artists operating outside of mainstream art networks through choice or circumstance. Susan was born in Te Aroha, New Zealand in 1951, far from the artistic hubs of Paris and London that Dubuffet and Cardinal operated in. That Myrtle fêted Susan as a self-taught artist who deserved to be taken seriously shows how progressive her attitudes were.
Susan’s parents Doug and Dawn were also progressive. Over the years they had consulted numerous health practitioners about Susan’s condition, as the medical establishment could not provide an explanation as to why she had lapsed into silence. Dawn educated herself in the field of homeopathy and went on to treat all twelve of her children using these principles – basing prescriptions on her observations of their physical, mental and emotional state.
Doug was a linguist with an interest in philosophy who devoted what little spare time he had to studying Maori language and culture. To some extent their willingness to explore the fringes of the mainstream made them outsiders too but it was their commitment to living with integrity and their respect for individuality that ensured Susan’s creativity was always encouraged.
Even though Susan’s family supported her artistic pursuits, some staff in schools and hospitals saw it as an impediment to her assimilation into the community and discouraged it in a variety of ways. Her family was not always aware of this and therefore did not fully understand why Susan stopped drawing in the early 1990s. However, rather than dwell on the challenges that Susan faced in pursuit of her artistic practice, they prefer to highlight her achievements. In 2008 Susan began drawing again in earnest, after an almost 20 year interruption, and her work is now shown in galleries around the world.
Susan grew up without television and has been heavily influenced by the comics she read as a child. She is absolutely fearless in the appropriation of recognizable characters, such as Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse, in her work. She twists their limbs, contorts their faces, compresses them together, blends them into complex patterned backgrounds - always imbuing them with an incredible energy. Although Susan often used pop culture characters in her work they are not naive or childlike. These are drawings by a brilliant self-taught artist who has been creating exceptional work for decades without an audience in mind.
Mladen Stilinović
"Various Works 1986 - 1999"
02 February 16 - September 10, 2016
Various works 1986 - 1999, from two houses, from the collections of John Nixon, Sue Cramer, Kerrie Poliness, Peter Haffenden and Phoebe Haffenden.
Including: Geometry of Cakes (various shelves), 1993; Poor People’s Law (black and white plate), 1993; White Absence (glasses, ruler, set square, silver spoon, silver ladel with skin photograph and wooden cubes), 1990-1996; Exploitation of the Dead (grey and red star painting, wooden painting, black spoon with red table, red plate), 1984-1990; Money and Zeros (zero tie, paintings made for friends in Australia (Sue, John, Kerrie), numbers painting), 1991-1992; Words - Slogans (various t-shirts) - “they talk about the death of art...help! someone is trying to kill me”, “my sweet little lamb”, “work is a disease - Karl Marx”; Various artist books, catalogues, monographs, videos; Poster from exhibition Insulting Anarchy; "Circular" Croatian - Australian edition; Artist book by Vlado Martek (Dostoyevsky); more.
Thanks to Mladen Stilinović and Branka Stipančić.
Jonathan Walker
Always Will Need To Wear Winter Shirt Blue + Ochre Small Check Pattern
21 August - 21 September, 2015
Untitled
I am not a great reader of poetry but I always return to the work of Melbourne poet, Vincent Buckley (1925- 1988). Perhaps I find his most tantalising piece to be not a finished poem but a fragment left on a scrap of paper discovered on his desk after the poet’s death.
The poetry gathers like oil
In the word-core, and spreads
It has its music meet,
Its music is in movement.
This fragment is more the shell left behind from a volatile thought than a finished poem. I find the last two lines honest but awkward whereas the first two lines work like an arrow. Most likely he could not find a resolution so it was left. Still, in its present form, it remains an eloquent testimony to the ultimate failure of a medium to express mobile thought and sensation, in Buckley’s case, through verbal language. It’s an important matter because this is something all artists have to deal with regardless of the medium.
I have never written a poem, however, I am forever copying fragments from books on paper scraps in a vain effort to fix certain notions in my head. At first, they function as bookmarks that are sometimes returned to when I open the book. But before long, as they accumulate, they fall out littering the table interspersed with A4 photocopies, bills, books and medications.
To return to Buckley’s fragment, the first two lines very much evoke how I paint nowadays. As you age, detail diminishes and patches of light become more luminous and float. I feel the most honest way of dealing with this is by smearing the oil paint on the canvas with the fingers and working close-up, blind. Only if the patches coalesce into an approaching image can the work gain a life.
-
Jonathan Walker was born in Melbourne, Australia and brought up on a dairy farm in Gippsland. In the 1970’s he studied painting at RMIT and won the Harold Wright Scholarship to the British Museum, London. During the 1980’s he exhibited at Pinacotheca Gallery, Richmond and had work shown at the NGV and Heidi City Art Gallery. Over the same period he designed the cover for the “Epigenesi” LP by Giancarlo Toniutti, Italy and conducted a mail exchange work with Achim Wollscheid, Germany. The work with artists through the post resulted in an article published in the bicentenary issue of Art and Australia 1988. He showed in artist run spaces such as WestSpace in the 90’s and 2000’s, and until 2012, taught painting at Victoria University, which is where we (Colleen Ahern and Lisa Radford) as organisers of the exhibition, among many others, had the privilege of being his student.
Walker’s knowledge was imparted to students through the careful selection of music, literature, and artists found in books that he himself had ordered for the library. Walker’s strategy was the generosity of sharing his vast knowledge with references specific to each student and their context.
Walker’s paintings share a similar focus and intimacy.
This exhibition presents a small selection of recent paintings alongside a publication that includes Walker’s writing. Observational and analytical, Walker’s work is a type of material notation — the time of day, colour and how it is blended, the both specific and fleeting location of a reflection on lino or the question of whether a chair leg should be included in a painting.
Please join us on Friday August 21 between 6-8pm to celebrate the opening of the exhibition.
Curated by Colleen Ahern and Lisa Radford.
B. Wurtz
Curated by Nic Tammens
March 26 - April 4, 2015
B.Wurtz works from a basement studio in his home on Manhattan’s Lower East Side.
This local fact is attested to by the plastic shopping bags and newsprint circulars that appear in his work. As formal objects, they don’t make loud claims about their origins but nonetheless transmit street addresses and places of business from the bottom of this long thin island. Like plenty of artists, Wurtz is affected by what is local and what is consumed. His work is underpinned by this ethic. It often speaks from a neighborhood or reads like the contents of a hamper:
“BLACK PLUMS $1.29 lb.”
“Food Bazaar”
“USDA Whole Pork Shoulder Picnic 99c lb.”
“RITE AID Pharmacy, with us it’s personal.”
“H. Brickman & Sons.”
“Sweet Yams 59c lb."
Most of the work in this exhibition was made while the artist was in residence at Dieu Donne, a workshop dedicated to paper craft in Midtown. Here Wurtz fabricated assemblages with paper and objects that are relatively lightweight, with the intention that they would be easily transportable to Australia. This consideration isn’t absolute in Wurtz’s work, but was prescriptive for making the current exhibition light and cheap. Packed in two boxes, these works were sent from a USPS post office on the Lower East Side and delivered to North Melbourne by Australia Post.
Wurtz appears courtesy of Metro Pictures, New York.
Thanks to Rob Halverson, Joshua Petherick, Sari de Mallory, Matt Hinkley, Helen Johnson, Fayen d'Evie, Ask Kilmartin, Lisa Radon, Ellena Savage, Yale Union, and "Elizabeth".
John Nixon
"Archive"
December 15 - January 20, 2014
The presentation of John Nixon's archive offered a rare showcase of this extensive collection of the artist's own publications, catalogues, posters, ephemera, editions and more, from the mid 1980s onwards, alongside a selection of his artworks.
Organized by John Nixon, Joshua Petherick and Matt Hinkley.
"Habitat"
at Minerva, Sydney (organised by Joshua Petherick and Matt Hinkley)
November 15 - December 20, 2014
Lupo Borgonovo, Janet Burchill & Jennifer McCamley,
Lewis Fidock, HR Giger, Piero Gilardi, Veit Laurent Kurz,
Cinzia Ruggeri, Michael E. Smith, Lucie Stahl, Daniel Weil, Wols
Press Release:
“...It contained seven objects. The slender fluted bone, surely formed for flight, surely from the wing of some large bird. Three archaic circuitboards, faced with mazes of gold. A smooth white sphere of baked clay. An age-blackened fragment of lace. A fingerlength segment of what she assumed was bone from a human wrist, grayish white, inset smoothly with the silicon shaft of a small instrument that must once have ridden flush with the surface of the skin - but the thing’s face was seared and blackened.”
William Gibson, “Count Zero”, 1986
"Autumn Projects Archive"
Curated by Liza Vasiliou
March 6 - March 15, 2014
World Food Books, in conjunction with the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival 2014, presented the Autumn Projects archive, consisting of a selection of early examples in Australian fashion with a particular interest in collecting designers and labels from the period beginning in the 1980’s, who significantly influenced the discourse of Australian Fashion.
Curated by Liza Vasiliou, the exhibition provided a unique opportunity to view pieces by designers Anthea Crawford, Barbara Vandenberg, Geoff Liddell and labels CR Australia, Covers, Jag along with early experimental collage pieces by Prue Acton and Sally Browne’s ‘Fragments’ collection, suspended throughout the functioning World Food Books shop in Melbourne.
H.B. Peace
presented by CENTRE FOR STYLE
November 14, 2013
"Hey Blinky, you say chic, I say same"
Anon 2013
H.B. Peace is a clothing collaboration between great friends Blake Barns and Hugh Egan Westland. Their pieces explore the divergences between 'character’ and ‘personality’ in garments....etc
Special Thanks to Joshua Petherick and Matt Hinkley of WFB and Gillian Mears
and a Very Special Thank you to Audrey Thomas Hayes for her shoe collaboration.
Janet Burchill & Jennifer McCamley
"Aesthetic Suicide"
May 10 - June 8, 2013
The first of our occasional exhibitions in the World Food Books office/shop space in Melbourne, "Aesthetic Suicide" presented a body of new and older works together by artists Janet Burchill & Jennifer McCamley, including videos, prints, a wall work, and publications.
During shop open hours videos played every hour, on the hour.
1999, English
Softcover, 154 pages, 24 x 18 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / fine
Published by
Soundworld Publishers / Chelmsford
$140.00 - Out of stock
First 1999 English edition of Les Sculptures Sonores: The Sound Sculptures of Bernard and François Baschet. This book is a classic in the history of art. Francois' book is many things, not only a fascinating account of his life and travels, with amusing anecdotes detailing meetings, working relationships and friendships in Paris and New York in 40s and 60s with major forces in the art and music world, such as Jean Cocteau, Yehudi Menhuin, Edgard Varese, Pierre Schaeffer, Henri Lazarof, Ravi Shankar, John Cage, David Tudor and Toru Takemitsu, but a complete description and technical analysis, research and chronological development of his Sound Sculptures, with which he began a pioneering career combining art and science, sculpture and music. The willingness to share his findings inspired another breakthrough: participatory exhibitions, spaces where everyone could explore and play with sound. François Baschets conception of acousticsa method of understanding the functional relations between form, matter, action and sound, led to the invention of hundreds of Sound Sculptures of all sizes and sonority, which can be found all over the world. Bernard and François Baschet had great success in the early sixties, when after meeting and forming their performance group with Jaques and Yvonne Lasry, their sculptures were featured in major periodicals such as 'Time', 'Life' and 'The New Scientist' magazine, in many films (most famously in William Klein's "Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?"), and highly prestigious tours and exhibitions all over the world, such as The 1970 Osaka World Fair and the MOMA, (Museum of Modern Art in New York), and even three appearances on the Ed Sullivan show.
Fine copy with accompanying CD of music featuring the baschets creations, documenting recordings by composers and performers of the instruments such as Daniel Ouzounoff, Jacques Lasry, Malcolm Ball and Michel Deneuve.
2022, English / Italian
Softcover, 416 pages, 22 x 32 cm
Published by
MACRO (Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome) / Rome
Mousse Publishing / Milan
Mousse
Archivio Cinzia Ruggeri / Milan
$115.00 $90.00 - In stock -
“Cinzia Ruggeri’s clothes refuse to be just clothes. They are better understood as genre-defying explorations of the human body.”—Financial Times
Finally! Long overdue — the first, comprehensive monographic overview of Cinzia Ruggeri's career to date.
Artist and fashion designer Cinzia Ruggeri (1942–2019) made her artistic research a tool for inquiry into the functional and semantic properties of the object and the architectural and social dimension of the body, according to an original and nonconformist perspective enriched by irony and oneirism.
Cinzia Says… is the first major survey of artist and fashion designer Cinzia Ruggeri (1942–2019), a unique figure of Italian postmodernism who moved freely across disciplines. From clothing and accessories to furniture and lighting—as well as sculptural installations often including these objects—Ruggeri created worlds that were continually imaginative, provocative, elegant and unpredictable. Ruggeri founded her own fashion line in 1977 and immediately became known for her use of architecture and geometry, such as the ziggurat and representations of the shape of Italy. During her lifetime she also worked and collaborated with Brian Eno, Occhiomagico, Alessandro Mendini, Casa Vogue, Maison Carven and Studio Alchimia. This catalog offers the widest and most complete overview of Ruggeri’s career to date, thanks to in-depth research conducted by MACRO (Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome) in collaboration with the Archivio Cinzia Ruggeri in Milan.
Published by Mousse with MACRO – Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome, this book is constructed as a broad, expanded chronology offering documents, photographs, accounts, and essays that bring to light a story left in the shadows for too long, and a legacy to look to now.
Published on the occasion of the eponymous exhibition at MACRO, Rome, in 2022.
Cinzia Ruggeri (1942–2019) was an Italian fashion designer and artist associated with the Memphis Group and Studio Alchimia, known for her postmodern work incorporating technology into surreal garments, combining fashion with sculpture, performance, and architecture.
Edited by Luca Lo Pinto
Texts by Mariuccia Casadio, Elena Fava, Maria Luisa Frisa, Corrado Levi, Luca Lo Pinto, Valeria Magli, Giancarlo Maiocchi, Sarah McCrory, Marco Poma & Andrea Giannotti, Mauro Sabbione, Davide Stucchi & Anna Franceschini, Jeppe Ugelvig.
1978, Japanese
Softcover (w. obi-strip), 98 pages, 30 x 42 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / good
Published by
PARCO / Tokyo
$190.00 - Out of stock
First printing of the great "Harumi Gals" from 1978. Legendary over-sized, glossy, and long out-of-print airbrush artbook from the incredible Harumi Yamaguchi, published by PARCO in Tokyo.
Airbrush illustrator Harumi Yamaguchi was one of the world's leading commercial artbrush artists of the 1970's. Born in Matsue in the Shimane prefecture, Yamaguchi graduated from Tokyo University of the Arts with a degree in oil painting. After working for the publicity department of Seibu Department Stores, Yamaguchi begun her career as a freelance illustrator, participating in the advertising production for PARCO with its opening in 1969. Since 1972 Yamaguchi has depicted female figures using airbrush techniques, instantly establishing herself as an illustrator that symbolized her era.
The encounter between Yamaguchi and PARCO was an inevitable one. Tsuji Masuda whom served as the president of PARCO had established plans for creating a department store that functioned as a cultural facility, collectively combining platforms such as museums, theater, and publishing in addition to retail, and as a result had headhunted Yamaguchi for this endeavor. As could be seen in Masuda’s decision of appointing Eiko Ishioka for the art direction, Kazuko Koike as copywriter, and Harumi Yamaguchi for the illustration, PARCO had soon focused on ‘women’ as a major driving source behind Japanese society of 1970s and onward, further succeeding in diverting this power to the business sector. Yamaguchi’s female figures are far from notions of eroticism as portrayed allegedly through male eyes in the form of pin-ups. On the contrary, the women themselves appear to joyously celebrate their own sexuality and existence. Furthermore, the images of women partaking in boxing, baseball, and skateboarding which Yamaguchi had illustrated in the 70s, could be interpreted as an ironic gesture towards a male-dominant society at a time prior to the establishment of the Equal Employment Opportunity Act in 1985; an era when women were unable to equally advance into society.
In the catalog published in correspondence to “Women of the 70s PARCO Poster Exhibition 1969-1986” that took place at the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography in 2001, Chizuko Ueno had critiqued Yamaguchi’s works stating, “while appearing to adhere to the scenario of male-tailored eroticism, Yamaguchi deconstructs male desire through her exaggerative depictions. As a consequence, the female body is idealized to a realm unreachable by male hands.” (‘The Idea of the Woman’)
Alberto Vargas, famous for his pin-ups for Esquire magazine and Playboy, is notably the international pioneer of airbrush illustrations. However, in the context of early ‘70s Japan there were no pre-eminent illustrators working with the airbrush medium with the exception Harumi Yamaguchi. It is certain that Yamaguchi’s achievements will continue to receive acclaim as an inaugural figure of super-real illustration that took Japan’s advertising industry of the 70s and 80s by storm.
Alongside her huge collection of women, Yamaguchi's great staged reference photographs are included, with photgraphy by Michiko Matsumoto and Hideki Hosoya and Graphic Design by the Tadanori Yokoo!
Good, tight copy with original obi-strip (not pictured), general wear and ageing/discolouring for over-sized book.
1985, Japanese / English
Softcover (w. obi-strip), 210 pages, 28.5 x 23 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Cultural Publishing / Japan
$160.00 - In stock -
First edition of this truly amazing, rare and unsung Japanese photo-book by Chikashi Tanaka, Japanese hair designer to the stars, published in one edition in 1985. A gorgeous 10 year collection of monochrome photos taken by Tanaka throughout the 1970s and early 1980s of celebrities who were active in the period. "Although photography is clearly stated as a side interest, the photos taken by Tanaka, who was always close to the glamorous as a hair designer, intimately captures the real faces of the stars, which cannot be taken by a professional cameraman." Beautifully and candidly capturing the cool atmosphere of the period and the stars that illuminated it, back-stage, at the hotel, in the nightclub, in between, Tanaka intimately documents friends, the stars of the Japanese (and American, and European) screen and stage, leading actresses, singers, fashion models, fashion designers, actors, and others, including Kaori Momoi, Karen Graham, Brooke Shields, Masako Natsume, Ayumi Ishida, Inès de La Fressange, Ken Takakura, Juliette Gréco, Helmut Berger, Kiwako Taichi, Catherine Deneuve, Akiko Wada, Jerry Hall, Mitsuhiro Matsuda, Moira Swan, Janice Dickinson, Seiko Matsuda, Princess Diana, Kimiko Kasai, Georges Moustaki, Mizue Takada, Hiromi Go, Ayako Wakao, Mikijirō Hira, Kaori Momoi, Yūsuke Suga, Hiromi Satō, Rumiko Koyanagi, Mao Daich, Mari Yoshimura, Keiko Matsuzaka, Jun Inoue, Beverly Johnson, Kimiko Ikegami, Nana Kinomi, Yoshiko Mita, and so many others. Really a beautiful collection to behold, with wonderful design and printing on warm, uncoated stock with a feel much like the early Comme des Garçons books.
Very Good copy with publisher's obi strip. Some light wear to covers and heavier wear, closed tears to uncommon obi.
1996, English
5 offset colour post card set, 15 x 10 cm ea
1st Edition, Out of print title / as new
Published by
? / ?
$120.00 - Out of stock
Very rare set of five postcards by French photographer Irina Ionesco, published in 1996.
Irina Ionesco (1935—2022) is a French photographer famous for her unique style of dramatically lit, baroque, erotic female portraits, influenced by the Decadent movement and the dream-like psycho-erotic imagery of Surrealism. At a young age she was sent to Romania where she was raised by her family who were circus performers. From the ages of 15 to 22 she performed as a contortionist. She traveled and painted for several years before discovering photography and gained wide attention when she exhibited her work at the Nikon Gallery in Paris in 1974, leading to her work being published in magazines, books, and exhibited at galleries across the globe. Working primarily as a fashion photographer, Ionesco stirred controversy with her nude portraits—much like Garry Gross would later cause with his sexualized photographs of a young Brooke Shields. Ionesco’s work often features women in elaborate dress, bejewelled, gloved, and in other finery, but also adorning themselves with symbolic pieces such as chokers and other fetishistic props, posing provocatively, partially disrobed as objects of sexual possession. Irina Ionesco is most famous for her photographs using her young daughter, Eva, as her model and muse, a decision that remains controversial to this day.
As New—Fine complete set.
1977, French / Japanese
Softcover, 40 pages (w. Japanese translation booklet insert), 34.5 x 29 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Façade / Paris
$220.00 - Out of stock
Issue no. 3 of the incredibly rare and iconic Façade, the French underground magazine published in Paris between 1976—1983. Founded in 1976 by Alain Benoist and Hervé Pinard, Façade was the french answer to Andy Warhol's Interview, heavily centered around Parisian club, fashion and art scene and published without any date or periodicity until 1983. Launched at an Issey Miyake show where models handed out the magazine from the catwalk, the cult magazine witness through its pages a long-lost, short-lived period in Paris featuring the so-called "jeunes gens modernes" of the 1970's, like punk icons Edwige Belmore and Alain Pacadis. With pop celebrity covers and vibrant fashion shoots styled by the likes of a young Pierre et Gilles (who met through working on this very magazine), features in collaboration with the likes of Serge Gainsbourg, and in each issue a unique "false" advertisement created by Karl Lagerfeld, it's no wonder Façade's reputation spread quickly to New York, Tokyo and beyond, making it one of the most desired magazines of the new wave. With texts in French, these rare issues come complete with the inserted Japanese translation booklets. Includes Eddie and the Hot Rods, Andy Warhol, Gilbert and George, the Inauguration of Beaubourg, Serge Gainsbourg, Alain Pacadis, Karl Lagerfeld… with collaborations from Pierre Commoy, Thierry Ardisson, Philippe Morillon, and much more.
Very Good copy, tanning. Beautifully preserved.
1978, Japanese / English
Softcover, oversized folio w. obi-strip, 216 pages, 36.5 x 25 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Heibonsha Limited Publishers / Tokyo
$150.00 - Out of stock
Hands-down one of the greatest Issey Miyake books ever published - the classic "East Meets West" of 1978.
First edition of the iconic first book/folio dedicated to the work of Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake. Published by Heibonsha Limited Publishers of Tokyo in 1978, the book features beautiful photoshoots by the likes of Guy Bourdin, Richard Avedon, Kishin Shinoyama, Harry Peccinotti and David Bailey throughout, documenting Miyake's creations of the 1970s.
Broken into three sections ("Man and his Cloth", "The Form of Cloth" and "Witness of Time") the book texts include a preface by Diana Vreeland and essays by Mutsuo Takahashi, Arata Isozaki, and Eiko Ishioka.
Texts are in Japanese and English.
1978 / 1979, Japanese
Softcover, 127 pages + 144 pages, 22.5 x 29 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Visual Message / Tokyo
$150.00 - Out of stock
First (1978) and second (1979) issues of Visual Message, the "comprehensive magazine of the visual age", published in Japan for a short period at the end of the 1970s. This explosive inaugural issue, co-edited by graphic designers Ikko Tanaka and Kazuya Uegami, and copywriter Shinya Nishimura and themed "Visual Scandal" is cover-to-cover packed with leading graphic artists, photographers, architects, textile designers, etc. from Japan and overseas including Tadanori Yokoo, Masao Saito, Harumi Yamaguchi, Masamichi Oikawa, Eiko Ishioka, Shigeo Fukuda, Tomi Ungerer, Masayuki Kurokawa, SITE, Tsunehisa Kimura, Tenmei Kano, Raymond Savignac, Katsumi Asaba, Ken Mori, Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Folon, Asai Shinpei, Marcel Duchamp, Rene Magritte, Herb Lubalin, Osamu Nagahama, M.C. Escher, Shiro Tatsumi, Hiroki Hayashi, Masayoshi Nakajo, Hiroshi Yoda, Hipgnosis, and many more.
Second 1979 issue of Visual Message is structured around the themes "Before/After" and "Scale" and again is cover-to-cover packed with leading graphic artists, photographers, architects, textile designers, etc. from Japan and overseas including Tadanori Yokoo, Philip Johnson, Hideo Yamashita, Seiji Takada, Takahisa Kamijō, Haruo Takino, Takenobu Igarashi, Akira Yokoyama, Hisaki Hiramatsu, Takamichi Ito, Tomoya Nakano, Shōji Yamagishi, and many more.
V.M. 1. Good copy. Some cover/spine wear/creases/small closed tear to edge.
V.M. 2. Very Good copy. Light general wear.
1985, Japanese
Softcover, 64 pages, 25 x 24 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Okanoyama Museum of Art / Nishiwaki
$140.00 - Out of stock
Very scarce publication produced to accompany the exhibition "ISSEY MIYAKE BY TADANORI YOKOO" at Okanoyama Museum of Art in 1985. First and only 1985 edition, this excellent catalogue details the history of iconic collaborations between Japanese graphic artist Tadanori Yokoo and Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake, spanning the 1970s and 1980s. It's all here, all of the incredible textile designs, posters, invitations, greeting cards, advertisements, garments, along with drawings and photographs, biographies, portrait, a full catalogue of the works... An invaluable resource for fans of either artist, boldly detailed and designed by Tadanori Yokoo Studio!
Very Good copy.
2022, English
limited-edition 3-part zine, 29 x 38 cm
Published by
Red3licte / UK
$65.00 - In stock -
Red3licte is a creative collective whose first project, Collage Couture for a Good Cause, turns existing garments into new ones to benefit Hope for the Young, a London based charity which provides financial support, mentoring and advocacy to young refugees arriving in the UK.
Accompanying a 150-piece fashion collection made from upcycled pieces, is this limited-edition 3-part zine. Featuring contributions from Paloma Elsesser, Sharna Osbourne, Matty Bovan, Thistle Brown, Raine Trainor, Nell Kalonji and Emma Wyman, it is an optimistic look at fashion recontextualising previously loved items through a surreal and fun lens. A soup, a swirl and a true salade of ideas.
All of the purchase price of ReD3licte’s magazine and clothing will go to Hope for the Young.
1999, English
Softcover, 64 pages, 11 x 15 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / As New,
Published by
Purple Books / Paris
Association Belle Haleine / Paris
$250.00 - Out of stock
Wonderful first printing of this long out-of-print artist book by Mark Borthwick, published in 1999 by Association Belle Haleine and Purple Books in Paris. An intimate, pocket-sized volume that collects together a gorgeous selection of Mark Borthwick's personal and fashion photographs. Mark Borthwick is a British photographer, film-maker and musician now living in Brooklyn, New York. He is among the generation of photographers who in the ’90s broke through the conventions of fashion photography, his distinct style being very light, intuitive and personal. He worked regularly shooting for Purple magazine, Vogue, and collaborated closely with Maison Martin Margiela in the 1990's. This book is in As New condition. Now very collectable.
1982, Japanese / English
Softcover, 204 pages, 29 x 29 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Comme des Garçons / Tokyo
$3400.00 - Out of stock
The almost mythological, rarest of the extremely rare, Comme des Garçons 1975-1982.
Self-published by Comme des Garçons in 1982, this absolutely stunning softcover volume assembles the most comprehensive collection from the seminal Japanese fashion label's earliest campaigns. It has all the pre Paris collections, from the first campaign in 1975 running through to the first years in Paris (1981/1982), featuring the photography of Deborah Turbeville, early Peter Lindbergh, Sarah Moon, early Bruce Weber, Kazumi Kurigami, Sachiko Kuru, Hajime Sawatari (!), Daiho Yoshida, Arthur Elgort, and other photographers. So many seldom seen early Japanese shoots of the earliest of Rei's collections! Over 200 pages of black and white (and some select colour) photography, printed in Japan on gorgeous, warm, uncoated paper stock.
One of the most sought after fashion photography/reference books ever produced. A magical, ephemeral object, and a must for any devoted fan or fashion collection.
Very Good copy. Beautifully preserved with tanning to pages/old yellow marking from old tape on inside of covers (not outer). No spine creasing. Preserved in plastic sleeve.
1986, Japanese
Hardcover (cloth-bound in slip-case), 152 pages, 36.5 x 29 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Chikuma Shobo / Tokyo
Comme des Garçons / Tokyo
$900.00 - In stock -
"Comme des Garçons 1981—1986" is one of the most beautiful and sought after fashion photo-books ever published.
Since the inception of Japanese fashion label Comme des Garçons in 1969, founder Rei Kawakubo applied a particular aesthetic to every aspect of Comme des Garçons, extending her vision to the company's packaging, furniture, interior design, graphic design, and publishing, including a selection of some of the fashion world's most visually compelling and challenging books and printed materials.
This wonderful and very iconic collection of photographs presents Rei Kawakubo's groundbreaking, innovative designs from an exciting period of Comme des Garçons history, between 1981 and 1986, as photographed by some of the most important fashion photographers of our time, including Arthur Elgort, Hans Feurer, Eddy Kohli, Peter Lindbergh, Steven Meisel, Paolo Roversi, Oliviero Toscani, and Bruce Weber, among others.
This gorgeous and incredibly rare clothbound volume, housed in original printed cardboard slip-case, perfectly captures a very important and exciting moment in the history of fashion, and is considered one of the most-collectable and prized fashion photo-books to come out of the 1980s.
Very Good-Fine copy preserved in Very Good cardboard slipcase with only light tanning / light wear.
1971, English
Offset printed poster, 71.5 x 49 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / good
Published by
Biba / London
$200.00 - In stock -
Beautiful original genuine vintage Biba poster with photographic image of the model/actress/ballerina Ingrid Boulting, shot veiled and in soft focus by the legendary Sarah Moon in 1971 for the London fashion store, Biba. Gorgeous matte finish, offset printing with fabulous colours and metallic silver stamped in corner with Biba logo. A rare item, this iconic vintage poster was originally used to promote the Biba cosmetics and originally acquired by a staff member from the Biba High Street, Kensington shop in London, around 50 years ago, possibly never available for sale. Copy in the V&A collection, London.
Dimensions : 71.5 x 49 cm
Good condition overall but with one heavy fold to left end, light water marking to same left end, some general light wear to soft paper corners, edges. All wear blends well with the overall feel of the poster, with no marking or wear to the focal areas of the image, still bright and clean without tanning.
Good copy, with some wear.
1998, Japanese
Softcover, 310 pages, 21 x 15 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Million Publishing / Tokyo
$80.00 - Out of stock
January 1998 issue of S&M Sniper, the cult glossy fetish magazine published in Japan between 1979 - 2009 that, unlike previous SM magazines, didn't centre so much around professional kinbakushi, favouring instead the exploration of new innovations of fetish and underground sex culture and emphasising the work of the models, stylists, make-up artists, and fashions designers, as much as the writers or photographers. The "new wave" of SM culture, embedded in 1980s underground music, fashion and visual art culture in Japan. Explicitly and profusely illustrated, issues are packed from cover-to-cover with all manner of SM and fetish photoshoots, illustrations, comics, essays, diaries, reports, exhibitions, reviews, interviews, and included regular contributors such as Masami Akita (Merzbow), Kazuo Kamimura, Domu Kitahara, Makoto Orui, Kinichi Tanaka, Nobuhiko Ansai, Masaaki Toyoura... Each issue is also brimming with amazing Japanese advertisements and classifieds for the latest bondage clubs, boutiques, fashion, toys, video and publication catalogues, hook-ups, phone sex, and much more. This issue includes Nobuyoshi Araki, Takashi Homma, Ken-ichi Murata, Masami Akita, Toyoura Masaaki, Aki Tanaka, Koji Nakano, Junko Takahashi, Tetsuo Amano, Domu Kitahara, Mayumi Oda, Gaijin Tokuno, all the usual and more... Not for the faint of heart.
Very Good copy.
1989, Japanese
Softcover, 310 pages, 21 x 15 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Million Publishing / Tokyo
$80.00 - Out of stock
October 1989 issue of S&M Sniper, the cult glossy fetish magazine published in Japan between 1979 - 2009 that, unlike previous SM magazines, didn't centre so much around professional kinbakushi, favouring instead the exploration of new innovations of fetish and underground sex culture and emphasising the work of the models, stylists, make-up artists, and fashions designers, as much as the writers or photographers. The "new wave" of SM culture, embedded in 1980s underground music, fashion and visual art culture in Japan. Explicitly and profusely illustrated, issues are packed from cover-to-cover with all manner of SM and fetish photoshoots, illustrations, comics, essays, diaries, reports, exhibitions, reviews, interviews, and included regular contributors such as Masami Akita (Merzbow), Kazuo Kamimura, Domu Kitahara, Makoto Orui, Kinichi Tanaka, Nobuhiko Ansai, Masaaki Toyoura... Each issue is also brimming with amazing Japanese advertisements and classifieds for the latest bondage clubs, boutiques, fashion, toys, video and publication catalogues, hook-ups, phone sex, and much more. This issue includes Tadao Chigusa, Nobuyoshi Araki, Tsuguya Inoue, Joel Peter-Witkin, Robert Mapplethorpe, Wilhelm von Gloeden, Keizo Miyanishi, Sayoko Nakajima, all the usual and more... Not for the faint of heart.
Very Good copy.
1983, Japanese
Softcover, 250 pages, 21 x 15 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Million Publishing / Tokyo
$80.00 - Out of stock
November 1983 issue of S&M Sniper, the cult glossy fetish magazine published in Japan between 1979 - 2009 that, unlike previous SM magazines, didn't centre so much around professional kinbakushi, favouring instead the exploration of new innovations of fetish and underground sex culture and emphasising the work of the models, stylists, make-up artists, and fashions designers, as much as the writers or photographers. The "new wave" of SM culture, embedded in 1980s underground music, fashion and visual art culture in Japan. Explicitly and profusely illustrated, issues are packed from cover-to-cover with all manner of SM and fetish photoshoots, illustrations, comics, essays, diaries, reports, exhibitions, reviews, interviews, and included regular contributors such as Masami Akita (Merzbow), Kazuo Kamimura, Domu Kitahara, Makoto Orui, Kinichi Tanaka, Nobuhiko Ansai, Masaaki Toyoura... Each issue is also brimming with amazing Japanese advertisements and classifieds for the latest bondage clubs, boutiques, fashion, toys, video and publication catalogues, hook-ups, phone sex, and much more. This issue includes Nobuyoshi Araki, Oniroku Dan, Aki Uchiyama, Fumika Kitahara, all the usual and more... Not for the faint of heart.
Very Good copy.
1971, English
Hardcover, 97 pages, 25 x 29 cm
1st Edition, Out of print title / used / very good
Published by
Edizioni 0 / Milan
$100.00 - In stock -
First edition of "Projects", the fantastic 1971 hardcover artist book by British Pop artist Allen Jones.
Designed and typeset by Jones, in collaboration with Roy Walker and Anthony Matthews, this lavish hardcover book is heavily illustrated throughout (primarily in vivid colour) with photographs, drawings, video excerpts and montages by Jones. Five of Allen Jones' costume/set design/art direction projects are covered in this book, including his work for opera (Mozart's "The Abduction from the Seraglio"), film ("The Playroom" and "A Clockwork Orange"), stage (two sequences from "Oh Calcutta!") and television ("Männer Wir Kommen"). "The text has been researched and transcribed from taped interviews with Allen Jones by Ruth Messina and Bonne Boston."
Allen Jones (b. 1 September 1937) is a British pop artist, best known for his sculptures, paintings, drawings, and work in set and costume design for film and theatre.
Jones’ exhibitions of erotic sculptures, such as the set Chair, Table and Hat Stand (1969), are studies in forniphilia, which turn women into items of human furniture. Much of his work draws on the imagery of rubber fetishism and BDSM. The sculptures in the Korova Milk Bar from the 1971 film A Clockwork Orange were based on works by Jones after he turned down the request by Stanley Kubrick to design the set for no payment. Jones designed Barbet Schroeder’s 1976 film Maîtresse.
Very Good copy, light water marking to end papers, not affecting content.
2022, English
Hardcover, 544 pages, 24 x 33 cm
Published by
Purple Institute / Paris
$89.00 - Out of stock
Purple celebrates its 30th anniversary and for this issue interweaves new editorial content with facsimiles of pages from past issues to show how different moments in time resonate and connect to each other. This issue tells the story of 30 years devoted to artists, designers, photographers, writers, cities and other facets that define the Purple World - such as night, philosophy, diversity, avant-garde, sex and politics. Throughout 30 parts full of photography, fashion, cool kids and nostalgia, the 30YRS issue features Elein Fleiss, Martin Margiela, Takashi Homma, Chloë Sevigny, Richard Prince, Bernadette Corporation, Wolfgang Tillmans, Comme Des Garçons, Rita Ackermann, Kenneth Anger, Olivier Zahm, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Abel Ferrara, Maurizio Cattelan, Dash Snow, Arthur Jafa, Glenn O'brien, Harmony Korine, Juergen Teller, David Lynch, Susan Cianciolo, Kim Gordon, Terry Richardson, Chikashi Suzuki, Katja Rahlwes, Henrik Purienne, Marlene Dumas, Rick Owens, and many many more. Accompanied by a special Urs Fischer Purple Book.
Purple magazine issue #38 features 29 different photographic covers. Unfortunately it is not possible to buy a specific cover.
2022, English
Softcover, 220 pages, 10.8 x 18.2 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$25.00 - Out of stock
"With the Warehouse Review series, we aim to give a proper analysis and contextualisation of certain contemporary fashion phenomena, but not only through an essayistic approach. Instead, we deploy various methods of research and analysis to zoom in on specific aspects that make – in our estimation – a fashion phenomenon into what it is. Our first edition of Warehouse Review, entitled ‘People Wearing Off-White’, was a thorough study of the fashion label Off-White and its immense popularity. With this second edition of Warehouse Review, we are taking a more meta approach: we are reviewing the fashion review, and in specific, those of the Louis Vuitton fall 2020 womenswear collection.
In his fall 2020 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director of Louis Vuitton womenswear, explored notions around time. Talking to Nicole Phelps, the Director of Vogue Runway, he stated: “I wanted to imagine what could happen if the past could look at us.” With that sentiment in mind, the contributors of this Warehouse Review interrogated these, now historical written records, that collectively make up a response to Louis Vuitton fall 2020 presentation. Through this meta-critique, we hope to explore what we might learn about these past examples of catwalk writing as a way to move the discipline forward. As McNeil and Miller declared “…the reviewer is the critic!” it is now time to critique the critic and to review the review."
With contributions by: Aïcha Abbadi, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Dal Chodha, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet, Isabel Mundigo-Moore, Johannes Reponen, Laura Gardner, Megan Wray Schertler, Ricarda Bigolin and Sophie Barr.
Edited by Hanka van der Voet & Johannes Reponen.
Design by Line Arngaard.
Edition of 700 copies.
2013, English
Softcover, 200 pages, 27.5 x 21.1 cm
Published by
Doingbird / Sydney
$14.00 $5.00 - Out of stock
Doingbird Seventeen, 2013
features Roe Ethridge, Walter Pfeiffer, Torbjørn Rødland, Shauna T, Fergadelic, Ryan Foerster, Max Doyle, Peter de Potter, Rene Vaile, Paul Wetherell, Ben Toms, Catherine Opie, Max Natkiel and much more.
2019, English
Softcover, 92 pages, 24.5 x 17 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$24.00 $15.00 - In stock -
‘We strive to put things out of context’
The fashion designers of ‘The Dutch Wave’ make remarkable and seemingly unavoidable use of this type of expression when describing their years as young, emerging designers. It is ironic that both of these rides do not provide any option to change direction or to pull on the brakes. After all, Michiel Keuper and Francisco van Benthum, the designers subject of this second issue of Monument, didn’t get on board to just sit back and take in the view.
With photography by Roos Quakernaat and an essay by fashion writer Laura Gardner.
About Monument
“Monument oscillates between a DIY fanzine and a high-end journal. Such ambivalence in its materiality also reflects the publication’s unconventional concept—demonstrating how change in the trend-fixated fashion realm can be initiated and driven by retrospect”
—Valkan Dechev, Glamcult, August 2018
Monument is founded by Mary-Lou Berkulin and designed by Karen van de Kraats. The magazine focuses on Dutch fashion design around the turn of the century. Each issue is dedicated to a single designer or label, enabling the contributors to go in depth on the coming and passing of the designers who were part of the 1998 “Dutch wave”. It is the first publication to focus solely on these designers.
2022, English
Softcover, 162 pages, 21 x 15.5 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$24.00 - Out of stock
This edition of A Magazine Reader, that took place at MA Critical Fashion Practices at ArtEZ University of the Arts in collaboration with Chet Bugter and graphic designer Zuzana Kostelanská, revolves around the idea of the ‘culture of emotions’, self-help, therapy and self-transformation within the construct of fashion. Besides our constantly changing looks, that are expressions of fluid identities, our minds and ‘inner selves’ are also ever changing and the idea of transformation is pushed beyond changing clothes or moving between traditional forms of status in society. Being responsible for our own emotional state of mind as something that should be transformed to a higher sense of being, todays fashion is strongly focussed on self-care, therapy and self-transformation and has connected this to symbols, object and situations. The fashion magazine is one of the cultural formats in which this societal focus becomes clearly visible and commodified.
Editors: Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet, Chet Bugter and Lianca van der Merwe
Art Direction: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet
Authors: Alessandra Varisco, Annabelle Boer, Beau de Bruijn, Dalila de Vroom, Lianca van der Merwe, Sohyun Yoon, Wei-Chi Su, Yi-Jing Chen, Chet Bugter, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet
Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská
Edition of 200 copies.
A Magazine Reader is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion.
In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies.
The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, A Magazine Reader focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making.
2022, English
Softcover, 240 pages, 24 x 13.5 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$32.00 - Out of stock
Press & Fold | Notes on making and doing fashion is an independent fashion magazine that aims to explore alternative fashion forms and narratives. The magazine provides a platform for critical fashion practitioners who actively seek out the cracks and fissures in the current fashion system to propose new opportunities for making and doing fashion.
With this Press & Fold issue on Resistance, we show a series of critiques of and propositions on resistance. Many fashion houses and labels have been incorporating concepts of ‘protest’ and ‘resistance’ in their clothing and collections over the years: from the protest T-shirts created by Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett in the 1970s and 1980s to the Chanel Spring/Summer 2015 show, featuring ‘traditional’ models (skinny and mainly white) carrying protest signs emblazoned with texts such as “Ladies First”, “Women’s Rights Are More Than Alright”, and “History Is Her Story” while wearing thousand-euro outfits, and the Dior Fall/Winter 2018 show which attempted to channel the resistance culture amongst students of the 1960s to advocate for women's equality. However, considering fashion’s entanglement with capitalism, we must wonder: how seriously should we take these statements? Rather than a genuine attempt at protest and resistance, the examples mentioned present a palatable and aestheticised version of the action, which allows the consumer to buy into a narrative of activism, rather than actually doing something concrete.
People have been adapting their clothing styles to show signs of protest and resistance for many years without having to buy (into) the fashion industry’s notion of it. From the suffragettes’ white dresses in the early 1900s and the Indian Khadi movement in the 1920s to the black berets of the Black Panthers in the 1960s, from the pink pussy hats of the 2017 Women’s March and #metoo movement to the green bandana of the pro-choice movement in Argentina in 2018, and the COVID facemasks with “I Can’t Breathe” written on them of the 2020 BLM protests: clothing has enabled wearers to show their political affiliations and solidarity with people and movements through visual signs and sign systems. But often, co-option by the fashion industry looms. Missoni created an expensive version of the pink pussy hat for their Fall/Winter 2017 collection, and the Black Panthers black beret appeared on Dior’s catwalk that same season.
This Press & Fold issue on Resistance presents conversations, propositions and imaginations of fashion and resistance outside of fashion’s industrial context. For protest and resistance to become effective, it depends on community to generate, support and further it: with this issue we think further on these ideas of protest, activism and resistance in and around fashion, and not only in terms of clothing, and how it is portrayed in (fashion) imagery, but also in terms of how fashion is structured and organised: is fashion only able to thrive within a capitalist structure, or are there other possibilities as well? What ideas, initiatives and structures can be developed for fashion to become inclusive and generous to all participants? What needs to be resisted and what needs to be embraced? In that sense this issue of Press & Fold, as well as the previous issues, is a world-building exercise, and wants to show what we can do without, and what we need to move fashion towards becoming a generous to all participants involved?
Edited by Hanka van der Voet.
With contributions by Andrea Chehade, Aurélie Van de Peer, Chet Bugter, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Elena Braida & Francesca Lucchitta, Emma Singleton, Emmeline de Mooij, Femke de Vries & Lyndon Barrois Jr., Floriane Misslin, Gleb Maiboroda, Karolina Janulevičiūtė & Kasia Zofia Gorniak, Line Arngaard & Rosita Kær, Patricia de Vries & Elisa van Joolen, Rainbow Soulclub, Ricarda Bigolin & Kate Meakin, Stepan Lipatov, Tory Van Thompson & Yuchen Chang, Youngeun Sohn.
Cover by Youngeun Sohn. Design by Beau Bertens with assistance of Emma Singleton.
Text editing by Melanie Bomans.