World Food Books' programme is largely produced on Kulin Nation land. We acknowledge the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin Nation as the first and continuing custodians of this land, and pay respect to their Elders past, present, and emerging.
World Food Books is an arts and special interests bookshop in Naarm / Melbourne. Founded in 2010, World Food Books is devoted to the presentation of a rotating, hand-selection of international art, design, literary and counterculture publications with an emphasis on the anti-traditional, the experimental, the avant-garde, the heretic, the marginal.
Presenting new titles alongside rare and out-of-print books, catalogues and journals spanning the fields of modern and contemporary art, design, photography, illustration, film, literature, poetry, cultural theory, philosophy, sexuality, popular and underground culture in its many radical forms, World Food Books wishes to encourage adventurous, thoughtful and open-minded reading, looking, writing, and exchange of publishing and ideas, both current and historical.
As well as our bookshop, located in Melbourne's historical Nicholas Building, all of our inventory is available internationally via our online mail-order service.
World Food Books semi-regularly co-ordinates "Occasions", a programme of exhibits and events at the bookshop and in partnership with other hosts (such as museums and art galleries) that develop out of the activities, relationships and content of the bookshop itself.
World Food Books
The Nicholas Building
37 Swanston Street
Room 5, Level 6
Melbourne 3000
Australia
SHOP HOURS:
W—F 12—6 PM
Sat 12—5 PM
WEB-SHOP OPEN 24/7.
World Food Books
Postal Address:
PO Box 435
Flinders Lane
Victoria 8009
Australia
Art
Theory / Essay
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Curatorial
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World Food Books Gift Voucher
World Food Book Bag
Australian Art
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Dada
'Pataphysics / Oulipo
Fluxus
Concrete Poetry
Pop Art
Surrealism
Arte Povera
Arte Informale / Haute Pâte / Tachism
Nouveau Réalisme / Zero / Kinetic
Situationism / Lettrism
Collage / Mail Art / Xerox Art
Art Brut / Folk / Visionary / Fantastic
Illustration / Graphic Art / Bandes Dessinées
Furniture
Italian Radical Design / Postmodernism
Textiles
Ceramics / Glass
Counterculture
Protest / Revolt
Anarchism
Socialism / Communism / Capitalism
Literary Theory / Semiotics / Language
Feminism
Fetishism / BDSM
Drugs / Psychedelia
Crime / Violence
Animal Rights / Veganism
Occult / Esoterica
Ecology / Earth / Alternative Living
Whole Earth / Crafts
All prices in AUD (Australian dollars)
Pick-Ups
Please note: The bookshop is closed until February 1, 2024.
Pick-up orders can be collected in our bookshop during opening hours after this date. Please collect any Pick-up orders within 3 weeks of ordering as we have limited storage space. Orders will be released back into stock if not collected within this time. No refunds can be made for pick-ups left un-collected.
Return Policy
All sales are final. We do accept returns (for refund, exchange) for items received in error. All our orders are packed with special care using heavy-duty padding and cardboard book-mailers or bubble mailers (for smaller books), using reinforcement where required. We cannot take responsibility for any lost, stolen or damaged parcels.
Insurance
Should you wish to insure your package, please email us directly after placing your order and we can organise this at a small extra expense. Although all standard/express tracked packages are very safe and dependable, we cannot take responsibility for any lost, stolen or damaged parcels. We recommend insurance on valuable orders.
Interested in selling your old books, catalogues, journals, magazines, comics, fanzines, ephemera? We are always looking for interesting, unusual and out-of-print books to buy. We only buy books in our fields of interest and specialty, and that we feel we can resell.
We base these prices on desirability, market value, in-print prices, condition and our current stock levels. We offer cash, store credit, and can take stock on consignment. All
about 25% of the price we expect to get when we sell them, or 30% in store credit. We base these prices on desirability, market value, in-print prices, condition and our current stock levels.
Sell your books any day of the week. You can drop them off and return later. If you have a lot of books, we can visit your Sydney home.
We buy books that we feel we can resell. We offer about 25 % of the price we expect to get when we sell them, or 30% in store credit. We base these prices on desirability, market value, in-print prices, condition and our current stock levels.
Philadelphia Wireman
03 August - 01 September, 2018
World Food Books is proud to announce our next Occasion, the first presentation of sculptures by Philadelphia Wireman in Australia.
The Philadelphia Wireman sculptures were found abandoned in an alley off Philadelphia’s South Street on trash night in 1982. Their discovery in a rapidly-changing neighbourhood undergoing extensive renovation, compounded with the failure of all attempts to locate the artist, suggests that the works may have been discarded after the maker’s death. Dubbed the "Philadelphia Wireman" during the first exhibition of this work, in 1985, the maker’s name, age, ethnicity, and even gender remain uncertain. The entire collection totals approximately 1200 pieces, all intricately bound together with tightly-wound heavy-gauge wire (along with a few small, abstract marker drawings, reminiscent both of Mark Tobey and J.B. Murry). The dense construction of the work, despite a modest range of scale and materials, is singularly obsessive and disciplined in design: a wire armature or exoskeleton firmly binds a bricolage of found objects including plastic, glass, food packaging, umbrella parts, tape, rubber, batteries, pens, leather, reflectors, nuts and bolts, nails, foil, coins, toys, watches, eyeglasses, tools, and jewellery.
Heavy with associations—anthropomorphic, zoomorphic, and socio-cultural responses to wrapped detritus—the totemic sculptures by Philadelphia Wireman have been discussed in the context of work created to fulfil the shamanistic needs of alternative religions in American culture. Curators, collectors, and critics have variously compared certain pieces to sculpture from Classical antiquity, Native American medicine bundles, African-American memory jugs, and African fetish objects. Reflecting the artist’s prolific and incredibly focused scavenging impulse, and despite—or perhaps enhanced by—their anonymity, these enigmatic objects function as urban artefacts and arbiters of power, though their origin and purpose is unknown. Philadelphia Wireman, whatever their identity, possessed an astonishing ability to isolate and communicate the concepts of power and energy through the selection and transformation of ordinary materials. Over the course of the past two decades, this collection has come to be regarded as an important discovery in the field of self-taught art and vernacular art.
Presented in collaboration with Fleisher-Ollman Gallery, Philadelphia, and Robert Heald, Wellington.
Susan Te Kahurangi King
02 February - 10 March, 2018
Susan Te Kahurangi King (24 February 1951 - ) has been a confident and prolific artist since she was a young child, drawing with readily available materials - pencils, ballpoint pens and felt-tip markers, on whatever paper is at hand. Between the ages of four and six Susan slowly ceased verbal communication. Her grandparents William and Myrtle Murphy had developed a special bond with Susan so they took on caring responsibilities for extended periods. Myrtle began informally archiving her work, carefully collecting and storing the drawings and compiling scrapbooks. No drawing was insignificant; every scrap of paper was kept. The King family are now the custodians of a vast collection containing over 7000 individual works, from tiny scraps of paper through to 5 meter long rolls.
The scrapbooks and diaries reveal Myrtle to be a woman of great patience and compassion, seeking to understand a child who was not always behaving as expected. She encouraged Susan to be observant, to explore her environment and absorb all the sights and sounds. Myrtle would show Susan’s drawings to friends and people in her community that she had dealings with, such as shopkeepers and postal workers, but this was not simply a case of a grandmother’s bias. She recognised that Susan had developed a sophisticated and unique visual language and sincerely believed that her art deserved serious attention.
This was an unorthodox attitude for the time. To provide some context, Jean Dubuffet coined the term Art Brut in 1945 to describe work created by self-taught artists – specifically residents of psychiatric institutions and those he considered to be visionaries or eccentrics. In 1972 Roger Cardinal extended this concept by adopting the term Outsider Art to describe work made by non-academically trained artists operating outside of mainstream art networks through choice or circumstance. Susan was born in Te Aroha, New Zealand in 1951, far from the artistic hubs of Paris and London that Dubuffet and Cardinal operated in. That Myrtle fêted Susan as a self-taught artist who deserved to be taken seriously shows how progressive her attitudes were.
Susan’s parents Doug and Dawn were also progressive. Over the years they had consulted numerous health practitioners about Susan’s condition, as the medical establishment could not provide an explanation as to why she had lapsed into silence. Dawn educated herself in the field of homeopathy and went on to treat all twelve of her children using these principles – basing prescriptions on her observations of their physical, mental and emotional state.
Doug was a linguist with an interest in philosophy who devoted what little spare time he had to studying Maori language and culture. To some extent their willingness to explore the fringes of the mainstream made them outsiders too but it was their commitment to living with integrity and their respect for individuality that ensured Susan’s creativity was always encouraged.
Even though Susan’s family supported her artistic pursuits, some staff in schools and hospitals saw it as an impediment to her assimilation into the community and discouraged it in a variety of ways. Her family was not always aware of this and therefore did not fully understand why Susan stopped drawing in the early 1990s. However, rather than dwell on the challenges that Susan faced in pursuit of her artistic practice, they prefer to highlight her achievements. In 2008 Susan began drawing again in earnest, after an almost 20 year interruption, and her work is now shown in galleries around the world.
Susan grew up without television and has been heavily influenced by the comics she read as a child. She is absolutely fearless in the appropriation of recognizable characters, such as Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse, in her work. She twists their limbs, contorts their faces, compresses them together, blends them into complex patterned backgrounds - always imbuing them with an incredible energy. Although Susan often used pop culture characters in her work they are not naive or childlike. These are drawings by a brilliant self-taught artist who has been creating exceptional work for decades without an audience in mind.
Mladen Stilinović
"Various Works 1986 - 1999"
02 February 16 - September 10, 2016
Various works 1986 - 1999, from two houses, from the collections of John Nixon, Sue Cramer, Kerrie Poliness, Peter Haffenden and Phoebe Haffenden.
Including: Geometry of Cakes (various shelves), 1993; Poor People’s Law (black and white plate), 1993; White Absence (glasses, ruler, set square, silver spoon, silver ladel with skin photograph and wooden cubes), 1990-1996; Exploitation of the Dead (grey and red star painting, wooden painting, black spoon with red table, red plate), 1984-1990; Money and Zeros (zero tie, paintings made for friends in Australia (Sue, John, Kerrie), numbers painting), 1991-1992; Words - Slogans (various t-shirts) - “they talk about the death of art...help! someone is trying to kill me”, “my sweet little lamb”, “work is a disease - Karl Marx”; Various artist books, catalogues, monographs, videos; Poster from exhibition Insulting Anarchy; "Circular" Croatian - Australian edition; Artist book by Vlado Martek (Dostoyevsky); more.
Thanks to Mladen Stilinović and Branka Stipančić.
Jonathan Walker
Always Will Need To Wear Winter Shirt Blue + Ochre Small Check Pattern
21 August - 21 September, 2015
Untitled
I am not a great reader of poetry but I always return to the work of Melbourne poet, Vincent Buckley (1925- 1988). Perhaps I find his most tantalising piece to be not a finished poem but a fragment left on a scrap of paper discovered on his desk after the poet’s death.
The poetry gathers like oil
In the word-core, and spreads
It has its music meet,
Its music is in movement.
This fragment is more the shell left behind from a volatile thought than a finished poem. I find the last two lines honest but awkward whereas the first two lines work like an arrow. Most likely he could not find a resolution so it was left. Still, in its present form, it remains an eloquent testimony to the ultimate failure of a medium to express mobile thought and sensation, in Buckley’s case, through verbal language. It’s an important matter because this is something all artists have to deal with regardless of the medium.
I have never written a poem, however, I am forever copying fragments from books on paper scraps in a vain effort to fix certain notions in my head. At first, they function as bookmarks that are sometimes returned to when I open the book. But before long, as they accumulate, they fall out littering the table interspersed with A4 photocopies, bills, books and medications.
To return to Buckley’s fragment, the first two lines very much evoke how I paint nowadays. As you age, detail diminishes and patches of light become more luminous and float. I feel the most honest way of dealing with this is by smearing the oil paint on the canvas with the fingers and working close-up, blind. Only if the patches coalesce into an approaching image can the work gain a life.
-
Jonathan Walker was born in Melbourne, Australia and brought up on a dairy farm in Gippsland. In the 1970’s he studied painting at RMIT and won the Harold Wright Scholarship to the British Museum, London. During the 1980’s he exhibited at Pinacotheca Gallery, Richmond and had work shown at the NGV and Heidi City Art Gallery. Over the same period he designed the cover for the “Epigenesi” LP by Giancarlo Toniutti, Italy and conducted a mail exchange work with Achim Wollscheid, Germany. The work with artists through the post resulted in an article published in the bicentenary issue of Art and Australia 1988. He showed in artist run spaces such as WestSpace in the 90’s and 2000’s, and until 2012, taught painting at Victoria University, which is where we (Colleen Ahern and Lisa Radford) as organisers of the exhibition, among many others, had the privilege of being his student.
Walker’s knowledge was imparted to students through the careful selection of music, literature, and artists found in books that he himself had ordered for the library. Walker’s strategy was the generosity of sharing his vast knowledge with references specific to each student and their context.
Walker’s paintings share a similar focus and intimacy.
This exhibition presents a small selection of recent paintings alongside a publication that includes Walker’s writing. Observational and analytical, Walker’s work is a type of material notation — the time of day, colour and how it is blended, the both specific and fleeting location of a reflection on lino or the question of whether a chair leg should be included in a painting.
Please join us on Friday August 21 between 6-8pm to celebrate the opening of the exhibition.
Curated by Colleen Ahern and Lisa Radford.
B. Wurtz
Curated by Nic Tammens
March 26 - April 4, 2015
B.Wurtz works from a basement studio in his home on Manhattan’s Lower East Side.
This local fact is attested to by the plastic shopping bags and newsprint circulars that appear in his work. As formal objects, they don’t make loud claims about their origins but nonetheless transmit street addresses and places of business from the bottom of this long thin island. Like plenty of artists, Wurtz is affected by what is local and what is consumed. His work is underpinned by this ethic. It often speaks from a neighborhood or reads like the contents of a hamper:
“BLACK PLUMS $1.29 lb.”
“Food Bazaar”
“USDA Whole Pork Shoulder Picnic 99c lb.”
“RITE AID Pharmacy, with us it’s personal.”
“H. Brickman & Sons.”
“Sweet Yams 59c lb."
Most of the work in this exhibition was made while the artist was in residence at Dieu Donne, a workshop dedicated to paper craft in Midtown. Here Wurtz fabricated assemblages with paper and objects that are relatively lightweight, with the intention that they would be easily transportable to Australia. This consideration isn’t absolute in Wurtz’s work, but was prescriptive for making the current exhibition light and cheap. Packed in two boxes, these works were sent from a USPS post office on the Lower East Side and delivered to North Melbourne by Australia Post.
Wurtz appears courtesy of Metro Pictures, New York.
Thanks to Rob Halverson, Joshua Petherick, Sari de Mallory, Matt Hinkley, Helen Johnson, Fayen d'Evie, Ask Kilmartin, Lisa Radon, Ellena Savage, Yale Union, and "Elizabeth".
John Nixon
"Archive"
December 15 - January 20, 2014
The presentation of John Nixon's archive offered a rare showcase of this extensive collection of the artist's own publications, catalogues, posters, ephemera, editions and more, from the mid 1980s onwards, alongside a selection of his artworks.
Organized by John Nixon, Joshua Petherick and Matt Hinkley.
"Habitat"
at Minerva, Sydney (organised by Joshua Petherick and Matt Hinkley)
November 15 - December 20, 2014
Lupo Borgonovo, Janet Burchill & Jennifer McCamley,
Lewis Fidock, HR Giger, Piero Gilardi, Veit Laurent Kurz,
Cinzia Ruggeri, Michael E. Smith, Lucie Stahl, Daniel Weil, Wols
Press Release:
“...It contained seven objects. The slender fluted bone, surely formed for flight, surely from the wing of some large bird. Three archaic circuitboards, faced with mazes of gold. A smooth white sphere of baked clay. An age-blackened fragment of lace. A fingerlength segment of what she assumed was bone from a human wrist, grayish white, inset smoothly with the silicon shaft of a small instrument that must once have ridden flush with the surface of the skin - but the thing’s face was seared and blackened.”
William Gibson, “Count Zero”, 1986
"Autumn Projects Archive"
Curated by Liza Vasiliou
March 6 - March 15, 2014
World Food Books, in conjunction with the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival 2014, presented the Autumn Projects archive, consisting of a selection of early examples in Australian fashion with a particular interest in collecting designers and labels from the period beginning in the 1980’s, who significantly influenced the discourse of Australian Fashion.
Curated by Liza Vasiliou, the exhibition provided a unique opportunity to view pieces by designers Anthea Crawford, Barbara Vandenberg, Geoff Liddell and labels CR Australia, Covers, Jag along with early experimental collage pieces by Prue Acton and Sally Browne’s ‘Fragments’ collection, suspended throughout the functioning World Food Books shop in Melbourne.
H.B. Peace
presented by CENTRE FOR STYLE
November 14, 2013
"Hey Blinky, you say chic, I say same"
Anon 2013
H.B. Peace is a clothing collaboration between great friends Blake Barns and Hugh Egan Westland. Their pieces explore the divergences between 'character’ and ‘personality’ in garments....etc
Special Thanks to Joshua Petherick and Matt Hinkley of WFB and Gillian Mears
and a Very Special Thank you to Audrey Thomas Hayes for her shoe collaboration.
Janet Burchill & Jennifer McCamley
"Aesthetic Suicide"
May 10 - June 8, 2013
The first of our occasional exhibitions in the World Food Books office/shop space in Melbourne, "Aesthetic Suicide" presented a body of new and older works together by artists Janet Burchill & Jennifer McCamley, including videos, prints, a wall work, and publications.
During shop open hours videos played every hour, on the hour.
2022, English
Softcover, 220 pages, 10.8 x 18.2 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$25.00 - Out of stock
"With the Warehouse Review series, we aim to give a proper analysis and contextualisation of certain contemporary fashion phenomena, but not only through an essayistic approach. Instead, we deploy various methods of research and analysis to zoom in on specific aspects that make – in our estimation – a fashion phenomenon into what it is. Our first edition of Warehouse Review, entitled ‘People Wearing Off-White’, was a thorough study of the fashion label Off-White and its immense popularity. With this second edition of Warehouse Review, we are taking a more meta approach: we are reviewing the fashion review, and in specific, those of the Louis Vuitton fall 2020 womenswear collection.
In his fall 2020 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director of Louis Vuitton womenswear, explored notions around time. Talking to Nicole Phelps, the Director of Vogue Runway, he stated: “I wanted to imagine what could happen if the past could look at us.” With that sentiment in mind, the contributors of this Warehouse Review interrogated these, now historical written records, that collectively make up a response to Louis Vuitton fall 2020 presentation. Through this meta-critique, we hope to explore what we might learn about these past examples of catwalk writing as a way to move the discipline forward. As McNeil and Miller declared “…the reviewer is the critic!” it is now time to critique the critic and to review the review."
With contributions by: Aïcha Abbadi, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Dal Chodha, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet, Isabel Mundigo-Moore, Johannes Reponen, Laura Gardner, Megan Wray Schertler, Ricarda Bigolin and Sophie Barr.
Edited by Hanka van der Voet & Johannes Reponen.
Design by Line Arngaard.
Edition of 700 copies.
2022, English
Softcover, 162 pages, 21 x 15.5 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$24.00 - Out of stock
This edition of A Magazine Reader, that took place at MA Critical Fashion Practices at ArtEZ University of the Arts in collaboration with Chet Bugter and graphic designer Zuzana Kostelanská, revolves around the idea of the ‘culture of emotions’, self-help, therapy and self-transformation within the construct of fashion. Besides our constantly changing looks, that are expressions of fluid identities, our minds and ‘inner selves’ are also ever changing and the idea of transformation is pushed beyond changing clothes or moving between traditional forms of status in society. Being responsible for our own emotional state of mind as something that should be transformed to a higher sense of being, todays fashion is strongly focussed on self-care, therapy and self-transformation and has connected this to symbols, object and situations. The fashion magazine is one of the cultural formats in which this societal focus becomes clearly visible and commodified.
Editors: Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet, Chet Bugter and Lianca van der Merwe
Art Direction: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet
Authors: Alessandra Varisco, Annabelle Boer, Beau de Bruijn, Dalila de Vroom, Lianca van der Merwe, Sohyun Yoon, Wei-Chi Su, Yi-Jing Chen, Chet Bugter, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet
Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská
Edition of 200 copies.
A Magazine Reader is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion.
In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies.
The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, A Magazine Reader focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making.
2022, English
Softcover, 240 pages, 24 x 13.5 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$32.00 - Out of stock
Press & Fold | Notes on making and doing fashion is an independent fashion magazine that aims to explore alternative fashion forms and narratives. The magazine provides a platform for critical fashion practitioners who actively seek out the cracks and fissures in the current fashion system to propose new opportunities for making and doing fashion.
With this Press & Fold issue on Resistance, we show a series of critiques of and propositions on resistance. Many fashion houses and labels have been incorporating concepts of ‘protest’ and ‘resistance’ in their clothing and collections over the years: from the protest T-shirts created by Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett in the 1970s and 1980s to the Chanel Spring/Summer 2015 show, featuring ‘traditional’ models (skinny and mainly white) carrying protest signs emblazoned with texts such as “Ladies First”, “Women’s Rights Are More Than Alright”, and “History Is Her Story” while wearing thousand-euro outfits, and the Dior Fall/Winter 2018 show which attempted to channel the resistance culture amongst students of the 1960s to advocate for women's equality. However, considering fashion’s entanglement with capitalism, we must wonder: how seriously should we take these statements? Rather than a genuine attempt at protest and resistance, the examples mentioned present a palatable and aestheticised version of the action, which allows the consumer to buy into a narrative of activism, rather than actually doing something concrete.
People have been adapting their clothing styles to show signs of protest and resistance for many years without having to buy (into) the fashion industry’s notion of it. From the suffragettes’ white dresses in the early 1900s and the Indian Khadi movement in the 1920s to the black berets of the Black Panthers in the 1960s, from the pink pussy hats of the 2017 Women’s March and #metoo movement to the green bandana of the pro-choice movement in Argentina in 2018, and the COVID facemasks with “I Can’t Breathe” written on them of the 2020 BLM protests: clothing has enabled wearers to show their political affiliations and solidarity with people and movements through visual signs and sign systems. But often, co-option by the fashion industry looms. Missoni created an expensive version of the pink pussy hat for their Fall/Winter 2017 collection, and the Black Panthers black beret appeared on Dior’s catwalk that same season.
This Press & Fold issue on Resistance presents conversations, propositions and imaginations of fashion and resistance outside of fashion’s industrial context. For protest and resistance to become effective, it depends on community to generate, support and further it: with this issue we think further on these ideas of protest, activism and resistance in and around fashion, and not only in terms of clothing, and how it is portrayed in (fashion) imagery, but also in terms of how fashion is structured and organised: is fashion only able to thrive within a capitalist structure, or are there other possibilities as well? What ideas, initiatives and structures can be developed for fashion to become inclusive and generous to all participants? What needs to be resisted and what needs to be embraced? In that sense this issue of Press & Fold, as well as the previous issues, is a world-building exercise, and wants to show what we can do without, and what we need to move fashion towards becoming a generous to all participants involved?
Edited by Hanka van der Voet.
With contributions by Andrea Chehade, Aurélie Van de Peer, Chet Bugter, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Elena Braida & Francesca Lucchitta, Emma Singleton, Emmeline de Mooij, Femke de Vries & Lyndon Barrois Jr., Floriane Misslin, Gleb Maiboroda, Karolina Janulevičiūtė & Kasia Zofia Gorniak, Line Arngaard & Rosita Kær, Patricia de Vries & Elisa van Joolen, Rainbow Soulclub, Ricarda Bigolin & Kate Meakin, Stepan Lipatov, Tory Van Thompson & Yuchen Chang, Youngeun Sohn.
Cover by Youngeun Sohn. Design by Beau Bertens with assistance of Emma Singleton.
Text editing by Melanie Bomans.
2021, English
Softcover, 176 pages, 21.5 × 17 cm
Published by
Viscose / Copenhagen
$42.00 - Out of stock
Viscose is a new journal for fashion criticism. Launched between Copenhagen and New York in 2021, the periodical publishes critical writing and projects by a wide range of authors from the worlds of art, fashion, literature, and academia. Through specially edited thematic issues, Viscose gives space to projects that challenge and expand the possibilities of research, practice, and critique of fashion.
Issue 2 of Viscose inverts issue 1’s focus on the immaterial notion of style to instead explore the most material of fashion’s building blocks: Clothes.
Clothes are literally everywhere and cite complicated systems of production, distribution, and exchange on their paths around the world. Still, they never fully reveal their journey or destination, and may often signify little else than their own commodity status, the total genericness of the fashion product. Bringing together a wide range of artists, thinkers, and writers, the issue sets out to explore clothes as a signifier at once empty and over-burdened: as expressions of desires, people and places, as palimpsests for capitalist production cycles and histories of dressed bodies, and even, as nondescript material debris. While not necessarily foregoing an analysis of the fashion system, we hope to develop a form of fashion criticism that begins – and perhaps ends – with the single garment, that takes the everyday use of clothing objects as an intellectual starting point. What knowledge can we gather from the studying of fashion objects, be they material or immaterial? What is the difference between clothes and fashion? And to which extent is even "fashion" ever successfully signified by things?
Featuring Nina Beier, Anna-Sophie Berger, Paige K. Bradley, Laura Brown, Pia Camil, Dal Chodha, Victoria Colmegna, Exatitudes (Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek), Anna Franceschini, Laura Gardner, Rhonda Lieberman, Eric N. Mack, Kristian Vistrup Madsen, Christian Oldham, Kembra Pfahler, Carl Gustaf Von Platen, Mattia Ruffalo, Tenant of Culture, Torbjørn Rødland, Barbara Sanchez-Kane, Else Skålvoll Thorenfeldt, Jeppe Ugelvig, Femke de Vries, Issy Wood, Bruno Zhu.
2017, English
Softcover, 392 pages, 21 x 28 cm
Published by
Onomatopee / Eindhoven
$60.00 - Out of stock
Dictionary Dressings is an ongoing research project by Femke de Vries that uses the nature of the dictionary definition as a "zero condition" for a piece of clothing to decode clothes and explore an alternative fashion vocabulary. Dictionary definitions are constructed to be factual and rational and as a consequence the entries for items of clothing show no reference to the ephemeral or immaterial character of fashion. They describe the characteristics of the items, their use and their relation to the body but never mention fashion or style. Take the Dutch definition of a glove for example: “Handschoen: bekleding van de hand” (literally translated into English as "Glove: covering of the hand"). Since a hand can be covered by putting it in a pocket, by bandaging it or by sitting on it, the definition allows a pair of trousers or a bandage to be interpreted as a glove – they cover the hand and so adhere to the definition. It is exactly this particular nature of the definitions of clothing that forms the foundation and very structure of Dictionary Dressings as a research project and an emerging design approach.
Designed by Hans Gremmen (of Fw:Books) and featuring Barbara Brownie, BLESS, Conny Groenewegen, Elisa van Joolen, Joke Robaard, Ruby Hoette and Students from the HKU (University of the Arts Utrecht) 2015–16.
2020, English
Box containing 4 fold-out patterns and label set.
Ed. of 500,
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
JOIN Collective Clothes / Amsterdam
$18.00 - Out of stock
The fashion industry focuses mostly on designer status and brand identity. It portrays garments as the magical results of invisible processes. It worships values such as originality and ‘the new’.
In general, fashion might be experienced as something that others do, something that is not for everyone. Although it is perceived in this way, fashion is actually already a collective practice. In daily life, we can find the simple example of everyone wearing clothes. Fashion is something we all participate in. JOIN Collective Clothes actively accelerates this idea by inviting everyone to JOIN. By opening up the production of clothes and inviting everyone to join, JOIN Collective Clothes enables a playful and fluid exploration of what clothes and fashion can be. JOIN Collective Clothes shows the importance of collaboration and therefore opens up new perspectives on today’s fashion system.
You are invited to JOIN Collective Clothes. This boxed and hand-numbered edition "manual" contains all JOIN patterns and a label set. Create your own modular clothing and add to the project.
JOIN Collective Clothes is a project by designer and researcher Anouk Beckers.
This manual is designed by Beau Bertens
Text by Femke de Vries
Edition of 500 copies.
2019, English
Softcover, 136 pages, 17 x 24 cm
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$30.00 - Out of stock
Contributors: Beau Bertens, Danielle Bruggeman, Aimée Zito Lema & Elisa van Joolen, Maria Kley, JOIN Collective Clothes, Johannes Reponen, Adele Varcoe & Collaborators, Colby Vexler & Justin Clemens, Articles of Clothing : Annie Wu, Agnieszka Chabros & Amelia Winata, Jessica Buie, Storage Solutions, Chet Bugter, Shanzhai Lyric, Rowan McNaught & Laura Gardner, Femke de Vries.
From luxury characterised as uniqueness created by lowly and anonymous artisans in pre-democratic times, to made-to-measure haute couture and the cult of the star designer at the end of the 19th century, from the merging of mass market and prestige into ‘masstige’ (a term coined by Karl Lagerfeld, introducing his H&M collaboration in 2004) to the hunger for street credibility by luxury fashion houses causing them to sell 2000 euro hoodies, and from the conspicuous consumption showcased on Instagram to the explosion of wellness and self-care culture; luxury has had many faces over the past few decades.
Among a new generation of fashion designers, researchers, writers and curators, very different views on luxury, and fashion in general, exist. Motivated by the sorry state of the current fashion system and its exploitative labour practices, environmental pollution, depletion of resources and exclusionary marketing language among other things, this generation is not only critiquing the system, its individualistic approach and its limiting views on the concept of luxury (among other things), but also seeking to create alternative, more inclusive ways of defining luxury. In this issue of Press Fold, we give voice to these new ideas and propositions on contemporary luxury and its material and immaterial characteristics.
These new imaginations on luxury show a radical departure from the classical interpretation of the concept; a concept that is firmly rooted in the idea that luxury is above all about abundance and indulgence, and therefore is not absolutely necessary, but a privilege for the happy few. But what actually is a ‘necessity’ in contemporary society, and what do we define as ‘abundance’? In the context of late capitalism and its inequities and growing political polarization, the ideas on what luxury constitutes are rapidly shifting. Self-care is making way for a collective form of care: for creating together, performing together, learning together, regaining agency together.
In this issue of Press Fold, you’ll find the views of our contributors on the meaning of ‘luxury’ in the context of today’s and tomorrow’s fashion world and society at large. We aim to show a plurality of perspectives, but all seem to have its root in the common understanding that change is required, not just within the fashion industry, but beyond. And as fashion can be regarded as a social practice – something we all participate in – why not start here?
2018, English
Softcover, 136 pages, 17 x 24 cm
Published by
Press & Fold / Amsterdam
$30.00 - Out of stock
(Notes on Making and Doing Fashion)
Press & Fold is a new independent fashion magazine that aims to explore alternative fashion forms and narratives. The bi-annual magazine provides a platform for critical fashion practitioners who do not obey the rules the fashion system is currently dictating.
ISSUE #0 includes: SHOPPING - Beau Bertens; FASHIONING STREETS WITH GIVE AND TAKE - Johannes Reponen; BREAKING THROUGH THE FAÇADE: Collective critique on fashion in the 1990s - Laura Gardner; NO SUGAR COATING ALLOWED - an interview with Camiel Fortgens by Renee van der Hoek; THE EXTRAS - D&K (Ricarda Bigolin); ON THE STREETS OF SOUTH AFRICA - Duran Lantink; ETHICS SYNTHETICS AVOIDSTREET THE RAG-PICKERS DISCOURSE - A selected guide by Tenant of Culture; LOST AND COLLECTED - Ruby Hoette; STREET FASHION, SELF-DEFENCE, FEARLESS - Femke de Vries; ONE–TO–ONE (R. MARIZ) - Elisa van Joolen
In a time where everything in fashion is in flux so little of it seems to be discussed on the pages of fashion magazines, forever trying to sell us more things we do not actually need. Ever since the first fashion magazine appeared the goal has been to show and sell – some more explicit than others – the latest fashions. This obsession with ‘the new’ has had a constraining influence on the development of an independent fashion media and a serious fashion critique. Press & Fold wants to discuss, but more importantly, imagine what fashion would look like if we take away advertising and editorials, take away the need to sell something through the magazine, and instead focus on having conversations on the production, presentation, consumption of clothes and the contexts in which this takes place. Press & Fold focuses on a fashion reality that isn’t based solely on consuming the latest fashions but on our experiences through fashion, seeking an alternative fashion discourse that goes beyond treating fashion as a commodity.
Press & Fold | Notes on making and doing fashion is initiated by Hanka van der Voet in collaboration with Beau Bertens. The magazine is a collaborative research project that connects critical fashion practitioners from all over the world.
2019, English
Softcover (elastic band bound in bag), 176 loose-leaf pages, 20 x 14.5 cm
Ed. of 250,
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
Onomatopee / Eindhoven
$23.00 - Out of stock
Published in a hand-numbered edition of 250 copies, A Magazine Reader is the result of a workshop in which a fashion magazine is dissected, critically analyzed from various perspectives and put together again in an alternative form. The material from the magazine is used to create a new zine that gives insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that's at the core of fashion media.
A Magazine Reader 03 dissects Harper's Bazaar UK October 2019 and is a collaboration between Warehouse, Zuzana Kostelanská and Onomatopee.
Warehouse is an Amsterdam-based collective existing of Elisa van Joolen, Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet aiming to provide a platform for critical fashion practitioners through organizing exhibitions, reading groups, workshops, performances and book presentations among other things, in order to create an engaging environment that facilitates critical dialogue and the creation of an alternative fashion discourse that goes beyond seeing fashion as a commodity.
2019, English
Softcover (elastic band bound in bag), 176 loose-leaf pages, 20 x 14.5 cm
Ed. of 150,
Published by
Warehouse / Amsterdam
$23.00 - Out of stock
Published in a hand-numbered edition of 150 copies, A Magazine Reader is the result of a workshop in which a fashion magazine is dissected, critically analyzed from various perspectives and put together again in an alternative form. The material from the magazine is used to create a new zine that gives insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that's at the core of fashion media.
A Magazine Reader 02 dissects British Vogue November 2018
A Magazine Reader is a Warehouse production initiated by Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries as part of their individual researches into fashion media and language in fashion (Press&Fold magazine and Garment Grammar).
Hanka van der Voet is Head of the MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ in Arnhem, and works as an independent researcher, writer and curator. Her current research is focused on the editorial practices of niche/independent/alternative fashion magazines. She is the founder of Press & Fold magazine and one of the founders of Warehouse. www.pressandfoldmagazine.com
The content is developed by MA Fashion Strategy students of ArtEZ Gen#28; Emma Disbergen, Laura Lisa Fernandes Januario, Eva Kühn, Boris Kollar, Kartijn Krijger, Nicole Dekkers, Andrea Chehade, Denise Bernts, Bobbine Berden, Mariane Cortez Meirelles. With guest lectures by Elisa van Joolen and Chet Bugter.
This is a Warehouse production For ArtEZ Fashion Masters, MA Fashion Strategy
Designed by Corine van der Wal In collaboration with risowiso & WALTER books
2019, English
Softcover, 400 pages, 27.8 x 20.8 cm
Published by
Surpllus / Melbourne
$50.00 - In stock -
Fashion has always been expanded. Fashion practitioners have always produced things other than clothes. Fashion subsumes the fields, disciplines, movements and cultures around it, in a relentless quest for the new. In D&K LOOK BOOK 2019, the traditional fashion ‘lookbook’ is expanded from a slight and selective compendium of a collection to an extensive monograph about fashion practice. This experimental fashion publication, subsumed in the format of a glossy fashion magazine, questions the ubiquity and mass consumption of fashion images. Critical fashion practice appropriates the conventions of fashion publishing to communicate alternative narratives of fashion systems and industry practice as evident in the practice of D&K. This is explored through an obsessive and excessive documentation of the project ‘D&K All or Nothing’ (2017), with imagery by Agnieszka Chabros, Kate Meakin, Layla Cluer, Warwick Baker, Marc Morel and Christine Scott-Young. Newly commissioned texts by fashion scholars and practitioners including Clemens Thornquist, Femke de Vries, José Teunissen, Matthew Linde, Michael Beverland, Nella Themelios and Ricarda Bigolin explore such themes as the performance of fashion, branding, product languages and strategies for critical fashion practice.
Designed by Brad Haylock
2019, English
Softcover (w. silk organza dust jacket), 400 pages, 27.8 x 20.8 cm
Published by
Surpllus / Melbourne
$70.00 - Out of stock
Fashion has always been expanded. Fashion practitioners have always produced things other than clothes. Fashion subsumes the fields, disciplines, movements and cultures around it, in a relentless quest for the new. In D&K LOOK BOOK 2019, the traditional fashion ‘lookbook’ is expanded from a slight and selective compendium of a collection to an extensive monograph about fashion practice. This experimental fashion publication, subsumed in the format of a glossy fashion magazine, questions the ubiquity and mass consumption of fashion images. Critical fashion practice appropriates the conventions of fashion publishing to communicate alternative narratives of fashion systems and industry practice as evident in the practice of D&K. This is explored through an obsessive and excessive documentation of the project ‘D&K All or Nothing’ (2017), with imagery by Agnieszka Chabros, Kate Meakin, Layla Cluer, Warwick Baker, Marc Morel and Christine Scott-Young. Newly commissioned texts by fashion scholars and practitioners including Clemens Thornquist, Femke de Vries, José Teunissen, Matthew Linde, Michael Beverland, Nella Themelios and Ricarda Bigolin explore such themes as the performance of fashion, branding, product languages and strategies for critical fashion practice.
Designed by Brad Haylock
First Edition, wrapped in a special edition silk organza cover, and found aluminium charm by D&K - Ricarda Bigolin and Chantal Kirby.